Shoe sewing machines



Nov. 1, 1955 E. QUINN ETAL SHOE SEWING MACHINES 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 2'7, 1955 Nov. 1, 1955 E. QUINN ETAL 2,722,182

SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Oct. 27, 1955 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Inventors Edward Quinn Napoleon J FrZcma 5 heir 1 may Nov. 1, 1955 E. QUINN ETAL SHOE SEWING MACHINES 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed Oct. 27, 1953 $4 In ventors Edward 'Quz'rm ZVZzpoZeorz SFerZczrzd Bf zfiz'rAgfijornzi A Z I I V 2 Nov. 1, 1955 E. QUINN ETAL 2,722,182

SHOE SEWING MACHINES Filed Oct; 27, 1953 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Inventors Edward Qu mm Napoleon J Ferlancz By t/zzr m United States Patent Ofifice 2,722,182 Patented Nov. 1, 1955 SHOE SEWING MACHINES Edward Quinn, Saugus, and Napoleon S. Ferland, Beverly,

Mass., assignors to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 27, 1953, Serial No.'388,511

19 Claims. (Cl. 112-51) This invention relates to improvements in machines for operating on the margin of a relatively thin, flexible strip of variable width material, and more particularly to those improvements in sewing machines which enable attaching a platform cover or wrapper strip to other parts in a shoe of theslip-lasted or California type. The improvements are hereinafter described as being applied to a sewing machine having a platform cover or wrapper strip guide similar generally to that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,705,464, granted April 5, 1955, in the name of Fred C. Eastman.

In the guide of the Eastman patent above-identified a preliminary directional force is applied by a pair of cooperating rolls to a cover strip as it approaches the sewing point in the machine to press it against an edge gage located along the path of movement of the strip opposite the sewing point. It has been found, however, that with thin, relatively soft and flexible material and with extremely hard surfaced, stiff material difliculty sometimes is encountered as a result of crumpling or slippage of a strip from the grip of the rolls. When crumpling or slippage occurs the strip offers excessive resistance to movement through the machine or escapes entirely from contact with the edge gage. In either event improper operation of the machine occurs.

The operation of sewing machines for attaching the up per and sock lining parts of a slip-lasted shoe requires the full attention of an operator. When a cover strip also is being sewn with its edge brought into register with those of the upper and sock lining in a single sewing operation, a preliminary cover strip guide is essential. Unless the guide for the cover strip is fully effective and operative without additional attention by the operator it is easier and more economical to attach the parts in this type of shoe with two separate seams, the first of which attaches the upper to the sock lining, and the second of which attaches the cover strip to the edges of the other parts.

A difficulty is met in the use of the Eastman cover strip guide where wide variation of grade and quality in cover strip material occurs by the use of a guide having co-operating strip gripping rolls. With the use of relatively thin, flexible cover strip material it is desirable for the rolls between which the margin of the strip passes to grip the strip as lightly as possible and to impart little, if any, frictional resistance to movement of the strip toward the sewing point in the machine. Otherwise excessive elongation and widthwise crumpling of the strip occur. With a cover strip of stiff, hard material it is obviously necessary for the co-operating rolls to grip the strip margin more firmly and frequently the pressure and angular position of the rolls are changed to increase the angle between the line of directional force applied to the strip and the edge of the strip. If the angle between the line of directional force applied to the strip by the rolls and the edge of the strip is increased for a hard, stiff strip material, then when a thin, flexible strip is being operated upon elongation and crumpling frequently occur, causing 2 the strip to wrinkle and produce excessive resistance to the strip movement. If the angle between the line of force applied to the strip by the rolls and the edge of the strip is reduced for a relatively soft, flexible material then excessive slippage will occur with hard, stiff material so that ineffective guiding action will take place.

The object of the present invention is to improve a cover strip guide similar to that disclosed in the Eastman patent to such an extent that, once proper adjustment has been made, the guide will be fully effective for all average grades and qualities of cover strip material from the thinnest, most flexible to the stiifest and hardest material ordinarily capable of being employed with the type of shoe referred to. Another object is to provide a cover strip guide with which a shoe upper, sock lining and cover strip may be attached together in a'single sewing operation with the exercise of less skill in operating the machine and less care or attention on the part of the operator to the movements of the cover strip into the machine than heretofore required.

Other objects are to provide a machine for sewing cover strips to slip-lasted platform type shoes in the same operation with that of attaching the .uppers and sock linings, which machine is more convenient in operation and with which a higher production rate is possible than heretofore obtainable. In the attainment of these and other objects, the illustrated machine has the usual devices for performing an attaching or other operation along one edge of a platform cover strip, an edge gage against which the strip and the other shoe parts are pressed widthwise into register with each other and in line with the point of operation of the attaching devices, and a preliminary cover strip guide having a rotatably mounted pilot roll for directing the strip into positive widthwise contact with the edge gage,'which machine is provided with a second rotatably mounted roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll to press the strip into gripping engagement with the pilot roll and arranged for limited axial movement relatively to the pilot roll to squeeze the strip against the pilot roll more firmly whenever the strip tends to move widthwise out from the grip of the rolls. As hereinafter disclosed, the second pressing roll is mounted for rotation on a pivot which is greater in length than a co-operating journal surface in said pressing roll, and preferably the pilot roll is provided with a strip engaging collar toward which the pressing roll moves in squeezing the cover strip. In the illustrated construction, the pivot for the pressing roll has a head for limiting axial movement of the pressing roll and a counterbore for covering the head of its pivot, so that there will be no opportunity for the strip to become pinched between the pivot head and the pressing roll as it moves axially.

In one aspect, the invention contemplates the provision of an adjustable strip edge engaging abutment located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll, and other features of adjustment include a pilot bracket provided with a swivel mounting for changing the angle between the edge of the strip and the line of directional force applied by the pilot roll to the strip to compensate for variations in curvature of the strip.,

To prevent the shoe parts which pass above the pressing roll from blocking its rotation as the strip is drawn beneath it a shield is located between the pressing roll and the shoe parts, and in the illustrated form of this feature adjustable mounting means also is provided for the shield arranged to enable its movement toward and from the pressing roll, so that the shield may be brought as closely as possible to the pressing roll without actually engaging it.

Another feature of the invention relates to an operative connection between the mounting for the pressing roll and a work clamping presser foot in the machine acting while the presser foot is being lifted to disengage the pressing roll from the strip. This feature of the invention enables easy introduction of a cover strip to a sewing machine or the application of a second piece for a twopiece cover strip into overlapping relation with the first piece between the ends of a strip attaching seam. To apply a second strip piece to a first strip piece already sewn to a shoe the machine is stopped and the work clamping presser foot is disengaged from the shoe parts while the leading end of the second piece is overlapped with the trailing end of the first piece at the sewing point. If connections are provided between the presser foot and the pressing roll to move the pressing roll away from the pilot roll when the presser foot is lifted, then the leading end of the second strip piece may be located conveniently between the rolls at the same time it is applied in over lapping relationship to the trailing end of the first strip piece.

These and other features of the invention, as hereinafter described and claimed, will be apparent from the following detailed specification taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a view in side elevation looking from the left of the operating parts surrounding the sewing point in a dry thread eye-pointed needle sewing machine embodying the features of the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a view in front elevation of the same parts of the machine;

Fig. 3 is a sectional plan view of the machine taken along the line III-III of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a plan view on an enlarged scale of a cover strip preliminary pilot employed in the machine;

Fig. 5 is a detail view showing modified forms of guide rolls employed in the preliminary pilot;

Fig. 6 is a sectional plan view taken along a plane passing through the axis of the guide rolls shown in Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a view in left side elevation of the pilot;

Fig. 8 is a view in front elevation of the pilot;

Fig. 9 is a view in right side elevation of the pilot;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view of an adjustable mounting for the guide rolls taken along the line XX of Fig. 9;

Fig. 11 is a plan view on a somewhat reduced scale of the work support, edge gage and preliminary cover strip pilot, illustrating the manner of operation while sewing a sock lining with a platform sole blank mounted thereon, an upper and a cover strip in a single operation;

Fig. 12 is a detail view in left side elevation on an enlarged scale with the shoe parts shown in positions assumed after the trailing end of the first, in a two piece strip has been sewn and the machine stopped.

Fig. 13 is a similar view showing the same parts after the leading end of the second, in a two piece strip is clamped by the presser foot at the sewing point in the machine with the guide rolls active in directing the Second piece into proper contact with the edge gage;

Fig. 14 is a sectional view looking from the front of the machine with the same parts in positions shown in Fig. 11;

Fig. 15 is a plan view showing the cover strip in section with its edge guided by an edge engaging abutment, the rolls and the edge gage; and

Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic view on a further enlarged scale of the cover strip in developed position. v

The illustrated machine is an eye-pointed needle dry thread lockstitch sewing machine provided with a double work clamp, one of which acts to feed the work progressively as the parts are attached together. The machine is constructed with a post type work support and is adapted for operation generally on relatively thin, flexible textile or leather material, such as is employed in the construction of slip-lasted platform shoes. The upper, sock lining and platform cover strip for such shoes are carefully cut in flat blank forms to suitably designed patterns with differing shapes to provide a configuration of a shoe when the edges of the parts are brought into accurate registering relationship. During the progressive feeding and attaching operations of the machine the edges of the parts are manipulated by the operator progressively in advance of the sewing point to bring them into register against an edge gage mounted opposite the sewing point. A shoe upon which the illustrated machine is particularly intended for effective operation is identified in Fig. 12 of United States Letters Patent No. 2,425,420, granted August 12, 1947, upon application of J. D. Chandler. Instead of inserting stitches which pass through the corner at the edge of a platform sole, however, the stitches in the present shoe pass through the sock lining only. Except as herein after described, the machine illustrated in the drawings is the same as disclosed in an application for United States Letters Patent, Serial No. 353,997, filed May 11, 1953, in the name of Edward Quinn.

The machine disclosed in the Eastman patent, above identified, is provided with a platform cover strip edge pilot which applies to the strip a strong force to cause the edge of a strip to assume a definite direction as distinguished from the usual action of merely drawing the edge of the strip widthwise at a location in advance of the sewing point to press the strip against the edge gage in the machine, regardless of the direction assumed by the strip edge with respect to the line of work feed. To impart a directional force as well as a widthwise drawing action to the strip its marginal portion is pressed against the periphery of a pilot roll for approximately 90. In this way a stronger directional force is applied to the strip in a plane normal to the axis of rotation of the roll than is possible when the strip engages a drawing roll at one location only along its periphery, with the strip moving in a path tangent to the roll. Not only is the force applied to the strip by a pilot roll of this type more strongly directional than that applied by other means but with the illus trated pilot the grip obtained by the roll on the strip is increased in direct proportion to the increased length of engagement with the periphery of the roll. For these reasons there is less widthwise slippage of the strip axially of the roll, less actual friction exerted by the roll on the extremes of flexibility or stiffness are met.

strip, and consequently, less resistance met in pulling the strip past the roll than is produced when a single point engagernent is obtained, as with prior strip edge drawing rolls. As a result the illustrated pilot roll may be inclined toward the line of feed passing through the edge gage to provide a directional force through a minimum angle .sufficient only to direct the strip into positive contact with the edge gage. To insure that the edge of the strip will always approach the pilot roll at the same minimum angle .a guiding. abutment is provided for the edge of the strip in, advance of the pilot roll, .as in the Eastman patent.

Use of a strongly directional pilot roll for a platform cover strip has been found to. provide satisfactory results within the fullrange of quality in strips, except where'wide Since it is desirable for the movement of the cover strip about the pilot roll to be relatively free with a minimum of friction, the engagement pressure of the strip on the pilot roll is kept as light as possible consistent with effective results, and preferably the grip of the rolls is concentrated along a marginal portion of the strip at a distance from its edge. With a strip composed of extremely soft, flexible material, however, it may become so distorted that it moves widthwise from contact with the edge gage even though a proper directional force is applied by the pilot roll, the inclination of the pilot roll axis toward the line of feed being sufficient only to compensate for slight distortion in the strip. With extremely stiff material a strip may slide widthwise over the periphery of the pilot roll, the surface of the roll producing insufficient indentation in the strip material to grip it Securely.

To obviate these difiiculties and to extend the useful range of a pilot roll guide of the type referred to, an portant feature of the present invention resides in the use of means responsive automatically to the tendency for a stiff strip to slide widthwise over the pilot roll, squeezing the strip with increasingly firm pressure against the roll, thus strengthening the frictional grip of the roll. With soft, flexible material which is subject to distortion, less pressure and frictional grip is applied so that less distortion occurs. As has been stated, this feature is embodied in a directional strip pilot having certain adjustments in its mountings to assist in guiding the strip both at the proper angle and in the proper widthwise position in advance of and along the marginal area engaged by the pilot roll. 7

Referring more particularly to Fig. 11 of the drawings, a flat blank shoe upper is indicated at 2, a sock lining at 4 to which is attached a platform sole 6 with its edge set back from the edge of the sock lining and a one-piece variable width platform cover or wrapper strip 8. The blanks forming these parts have their edges cut with shapes and curvatures differing widely one from another, so that when the edges of two differently shaped parts are attached in register, the configuration of a shoe will be produced. The shoe parts in Fig. 11 are shown in positions assumed when first presented to the sewing point in the machine, the upper and sock lining being guided entirely by an operator and the cover strip being directed only by the improved strip edge pilot.

The cover strip pilot is designed to operate successfully along the edges of a one-piece cover strip 8 varying through a wide range of widths and curvatures and with great variations in physical qualities in material. The most important requisites include proper presentation of the strip margin to the machine at the sewing point, indicated at 10, where the stitch forming devices operate and retention of the strip edge in firm contact with an edge gage 12, which gage also contacts the edges of the upper and sock lining.

The illustrated sewing machine differs somewhat in construction from that of the Eastman patent in that it is provided with a straight eye-pointed needle 14 (see Figs. 1 and 2) instead of a curved one. The work feeding devices of the machine, while comprising a double clamp, one of which feeds the Work, are arranged to cooperate with the straight eye-pointed needle in a manner more fully disclosed in the copending Quinn application.

The double clamp and feed arrangement consists, briefly, of a stationary cutaway post type work support 15 comprising one member of a nonfeeding clamp, the

other member of which is a nonfeeding presser foot 16 engaging the work on the support in advance of and in line with the sewing point 10 of the needle 14. The work feeding clamp comprises a feed dog 18 mounted below the work supporting surface of the work support and actuated in a manner more fully described in the prior Quinn application. The feed dog 18 co-operates with a work feeding foot 20 having a vertical opening through which the needle passes, the needle moving horizontally with the feeding foot while engaging the work to assist the feed. The nonfeeding and feeding Work clamps act alternately on the work and providethe means of work movement through the machine along the line of feed running from right to left in Fig. l and at right angles to the plane of the sheet in Fig. 2.

The mechanism for actuating the nonfeeding and feeding work clamps is similar to that in prior machines, and briefly described, includes parallel reciprocating presser foot bars 22 and 24 on which the nonfeeding and feeding presser feet are mounted, respectively. The nonfeeding bar 22 is slidingly mounted in a fixed portion of the machine frame 26 at the rear of the feeding bar, which is similarly mounted in a carrier 28 movable in the direction of feed on the machine frame. The'carrier 28 also has mounted in it for reciprocation a needle bar 30 at the lower end of which is clamped the needle '14.

The presser foot bars 22 and 24 are reciprocated' alternately to clamp the work by means of a block 32 secured to the nonfeeding bar and provided with a fulcrum screw 34 for an oscillating lever 36, one arm of which is pivot ally connected through a link 38 to ablock 39 on the feeding bar 24. For pressing both bars downwardly to engage their presser feet with the work, the feeding bar is surrounded by a compression spring 40 acting at its lower end against the block 39. As the lever 36 is oscillated about its fulcrum screw each bar alternately is raised and lowered.

To lift both presser feet from engagement with the work at the end of a seam so that a sewn shoe may be removed and new shoe parts inserted the main frame has mounted upon it a hand lever 42 rotatable on a fixed pin 44 and provided with a cam surface engaging the underside of the block 32. The arrangement is such that when the lever is moved rearwardly, to the left in Fig. 1, both presser feet are lifted simultaneously from the work.

The cover strip pilot is mounted on the work support post 15 and the post is recessed along its leading work engaging edge at 46 to provide a mounting space for the pilot. The pilot roll over which the cover strip passes is indicated at and is located as close as possible to and below the level of the work engaging surface of the work support just in advance of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices and the nonfeeding presser foot 16. As thus far described the cover strip pilot is generally similar in construction and in mode of operation to that disclosed in the Eastman patent except that it is mounted below the level of the work support rather than above it, as in the Eastman patent.

The work support post 15 is cut away 'with abrupt drops in advance of and beyond the sewing point 10 to enable free fleXure of the shoe parts, and particularly beyond the sewing point where those parts already sewn project. The upper work engaging end of the work support is generally V-shaped with a slot for receiving the feed dog 18, the feed dog being secured to the upper end of a vertical lever 48 actuated with a four-motion movement, that is, in a direction to clamp the work in opposition; to the vertical movement of the feed foot 20 and then in the direction of work feed in unison with the feeding movement of the feed foot. y

The pilot roll 50 is rotatably mounted on an approximately horizontal axis carried by a bracket 52, in turn supported on an angle plate 54 clamped releasably to the work support post for adjusting movement by screws 56 passing through horizontal slots in the plate into threaded engagement with the frame of the post. For pressing the cover strip into engagement with approximately 90 of the pilot roll' periphery, a second rotatably V mounted roll 58 of shorter axial length is supported on a carrier in the form of an offset arm 60 (see Figs. 4 to 9 The axes of the rolls 50 and 58 are parallel and comprise a pivot 62 secured in the pilot roll bracket 52 and a pivot 64 secured in the carrier arm 60 for the pressing roll 58, each pivot extending from the bracket or arm toward the part in which the other pivot is secured. The carrier arm 60 is mounted for yielding movement with the pressing roll toward the pilot roll about the reduced intermediate portion of a shouldered pin 66, one endportion of which is reduced in diameter still further to pass loosely through an opening in the pilot bracket 52. To clamp the pin in a fixed position on the bracket, the end portion is threaded and is surrounded by a clamp nut 68 which draws a shoulder between the intermediate portion and the threaded end into clamping engagement with the bracket. The pressing roll is actuated yieldingly toward the pilot roll by a spring 70 coiled about the pin 66 and engaged at its ends with the bracket 52 and with the arm 60, respectively. As in the cover strip pilot of the Eastman patent the benefit of a strong directional force on a cover strip is obtained in the present machine by reason of the engagement of the strip margin withrthe pilot roll CV6 approximately 90 of its periphery, a second pressing roll engaging the strip sufficiently in advance of the pilot roll to produce the desired result. With the use of the Eastman strip pilot, however, the pressure of the rolls on the cover strip remains the same under all conditions so that strips of extreme stiffness and hard surface may escape the grip of the rolls.

As has been stated, the roll 58 of the present cover strip pilot exerts an increasingly firm gripping pressure on the strip to squeeze it against the pilot roll 50 whenever the strip tends to move widthwise from between the rolls. For this purpose the pressing roll is arranged for limited axial movement on its pivot greater than that obtainable in the pilot roll, the. bearing surface of the pressing roll pivot having a greater length than the cooperating journal surface within the pressing roll itself.

As the cover strip tends to move in a widthwise direction it carries with it the pressing roll 58, moving the pressing roll along its axis relatively to the pilot roll toward a knurled radially projecting collar 72 on the pilot roll. The collar 72 is of greater diameter than the remainder of the pilot roll so that relative movement of the pressing roll 58 causes the margin of the strip between the rolls to be squeezed by the edges of the roll 58 and the collar 72 into reverse bends (see Fig. 15). In squeezing the margin of the strip into reverse bends slight indentations occur in the strip conforming it with the collar on the pilot roll and providing an opportunity for a still firmer grip on the strip. To insure that the pressing roll 58 will slide axially on its pivot in response to widthwise movement of the strip the roll 58 also is provided with a knurled collar 74 formed at that end adjacent to the collar 72 on the pilot roll. The projection of the collar 74 is less than that of the collar 72 to prevent the edge of an extremely thin cover strip from curling, thereby reducing distortion and stretch along the strip edge.

To limit axial movement of the pressing roll 58, the free end of the pivot 64 has an enlarged head and the pressing roll has a counterbore 76 (see Fig, 6) of sufficient depth and diameter to cover at least a portion of the pivot head at all times. on the pivot is such that, within the limited axial movement of the pressing roll there is no opportunity for the material of the strip or particles of foreign matter to enter the space between the head of the pivot and the roll, the counterbore always being closed by the head of the pivot in any axial pos tion of the pressing roll. With this construction interference with tilt axial movement of the roll is avoided.

The collars 72 and 74 on the rolls, shown in the drawings, except for Fig. 5, are toothed or knurled with cylindrical peripheries. In the forms of rolls shown in Fig. 5, there are collars 78 and 80 having cone-shaped and knurled outer peripheries inclined in opposite direca tions, the pressing roll collar having its cone-shaped periphery inclined outwardly toward its end and in the opposite direction from that of the collar 78 on the pilot roll, Which is inclined inwardly from its end. With this construction of rolls there is less tendency to indent the material of a cover strip in a manner to form permanent lengthwise marks along the margin of the strip.

As the strip pressing roll 58 moves axially along its pivot toward the collar 72 on the pilot roll 50 there is a tendency for the pressing roll to climb up on the material of the cover strip, moving the carrier arm 60 slightly about its pin 66 against the force. of the spring 70. To resist this tendency and to prevent corresponding separation of the pressing roll from the pilot roll, in the illustrated construction, the spring 70 has its lower end engaged with the bracket 52 directly below the collar 72 on the pilot roll, but the upper end of the spring The thiekness of the head engages the carrier arm 60 in one of three notches 82 in the underside of an offset portion in the arm (Fig. 8). The notches 82 are spaced lengthwise of the pin 66 different distances, so that the spring 70 not only presses the roll 58 directly toward the pilot roll but also urges the carrier arm axially along the pin 66 with a frictional pressure exerted on a shoulder of the pin and on the side of the bracket 52. The spacing of the notches 82 provides means for adjusting the frictional pressure on the pin 66 and bracket, with a resulting resistance to separation between the two rolls. With the notch 82 nearest the bracket 52 in use there is less frictional pressure exerted and with the notch in use further away from the bracket there is greater frictional pressure. Since the forces tending to move the strip widthwise and the roll 58 axially are minute, frictional resistances of correspondingly small intensity are sufiicient to prevent separation of the pressing roll from the pilot roll through movement of the arm about the pin 66, thus insuring an increased grip on the strip as the pressing roll moves axially. Relocation of the upper end of the spring in a different notch is sufficient to compensate for any possible change in flexibility or rigidity in cover strip material. To increase or decrease the force of the spring its lower end may be located in either of two notches 83 in the bracket 52.

To prevent actual engagement of the pressing roll 58 with the pilot roll 50 the lower end of the carrier arm 60 has a downwardly extending lug portion 84 (Fig. 9)

' a which engages a horizontal surface on the bracket 52 as the pressing roll approaches the pilot roll. By preventing engagement of the rolls the teeth or knurling marks on their collars are kept sharp for a maximum period of time.

The operation of the improved cover strip edge pilot is briefly described in connection with Fig. 16. In this figure the parts are shown in developed relation as though the cover strip 8 were laid in a fiat position with the edge along which the seam is inserted held in contact with the edge gage 12 by the pilot rolls 50 and 58. The cover strip is pulled by the feeding devices in the direction of the arrow and the edge of the strip forms an acute angle A with a line of work feed passing through the strip contacting surface of the edge gage 12, the line of work feed being indicated by a broken line 86. The angle A is substantially less than the corresponding angle required in use with the strip pilot of the Eastman patent, and for general purposes the angle may be reduced to approximately 6. In this way the frictional pressure between the edge of the strip and the edge gage is reduced to a minimum, the pilot roll being located as closely as possible to the sewing point 10. To insure that the cover strip is held within the grip of th rolls as it is pulled toward the sewing point, the angular position of the pilot roll is adjusted so that it will exert its directional force on the strip along a dotdash line 88 representing in edgewlse projection a plane normal to the axes of the pivots 62 and 64. The line 88 forms an acute angle B with the line of feed 86, which angle also may be reduced to approximately 3, making an angle of 9 at C between the edge of the cover strip and the line 88. As the cover strip is pulled toward the sewing point slight widthwise slippage of the strip occurs between the rolls causing some frictional resistance to be set up against the feeding movement. However, the angle C is so small that the component of frictional s1ippage between the rolls does not impart appreciable drag on the strip, the reduction in the angle A over that re.- quired with the Eastman strip pilot also reducing frictional pressure on the edge gage to a minimum.

In order to improve the effectiveness of the pilot roll for cover strips, the material of which varies greatly in flexibility, without increasing the angle 13 shown in Fig. 16, the axis of the pilot roll is inclined from a horizontal position in a vertical plane through a relatively small angle D, as shown in Fig. 14, the flanged end of the pilot roll being highest. By inclining the axis of the pilot roll in this way a greater frictional force is applied by the flange on the pilot roll to the cover strip and the directional force of the pilot roll is applied through a bend in the strip at a distance above the roll to press the strip edge more firmly against the edge gage 12. By reason of the bend in the cover strip as it moves across the edge of the work support, the angle A between the line of feed and the edge of the strip as it approaches the edge gage is more favorable to accurate guiding results. Furthermore, when the material of the cover strip is of great flexibility, a much more favorable angle of approach to the edge gage occurs, while with stiffer material the angle A between the line of feed and the approaching edge of the strip is reduced so that there is less necessity for widthwise slippage of the strip be tween the rolls and there is more opportunity for accurate guiding action than without the vertical inclination of the pilot roll from a horizontal position.

To insure a uniform application of axial force on the pressing roll 58 as the cover strip is pulled over the pilot roll in the improved form of this feature, the edge of the strip is brought positively into engagement with the carrier arm 60 on which the pressing roll is rotatably mounted. To this end the arm 60 has a projection 89 (see Figs. 12 and 16) extending across the end of the pilot roll pivot 62 and the edge of the arm first engaged by the strip is beveled for smooth engagement with the strip. In this way the edge of the strip directly opposite the marginal portion engaged by the rolls is guided accurately between the rolls and fluctuation of frictional resistance due to widthwise crumpling of the strip is avoided.

For guiding the edge of the strip reliably into engagement with the carrier arm 60 at a minimum angle with relation to the arm, so that unnecessary frictional resistance to movement of the strip is avoided with cover strips of widely varying flexibility, the strip engages a U-shaped finger 90 at the upper end of a vertically slotted plate 92 located along the path of the strip in advance of the pressing roll 58 (see Figs. 1, 2, 3, 12, 13 and 15). The plate 92 is adjustably secured to the angle plate 54 by a pair of clamp screws 94 passing through a vertical slot in the plate 92 and into threaded engagement with the angle plate 54. Loosening the screws 94 enables adjusting movements to be imparted to'the finger 90 lengthwise of the path of the strip as it is drawn by the feeding devices.

To compensate for variations in flexibility in the material forming the cover strip the position of the finger 90 may be adjusted to increase or decrease the distance between it and the pilot roll. Thus, with very flexible material it is desirable to bring the finger close to the pilot roll and with stiifer material the finger is moved further away from the pilot roll.

Provision is made in the mounting for the strip pilot for adjusting the angle between the line 88 of directional force applied to the strip by the rolls and the feed line 86 (Fig. 16) and for moving the pilot rolls toward and from the sewing point (Fig. 11) so that the guiding action of the rolls will be maintained most efliciently and additional compensation may be had for variations in flexibility of strip material. For these purposes the bracket 52 is mounted to swivel about a vertical axis extending at right angles to the plane of the work engaging surface of the work support. For convenience in adjustment the swivel axis is also located in line with the grip of the rolls on the strip. In this way adjustment of the bracket on its swivel mounting will change the angle B controlling the line of directional force applied to the strip without changing the position of the rolls bodily in a direction transverse to the line of feed 86. Accordingly, a horizontal flange on the bracket 52 has passing through it a vertical rivet 96 rotatable in a mounting plate 98 secured to the angle plate 54. To hold the bracket in the desired position about the swivel axis of the rivet 96, the bracket 52 has an arcuate slot (see Figs. 4 and 10) centered about the axis of the rivet. The slot 100 has passing through it a clamp screw 102 engaging a threaded opening in the mounting plate 98. Loosening the clamp screw 102 frees the bracket for angular adjustment about the rivet 96.

For moving the pilot roll toward and from the sewing point the lower surface of the mounting plate 98 has a tongue 104 (Fig. 8) arranged to enter a groove in the angle plate 54, the tongue and groove connection extending in the direction of work feed. To secure the mounting plate adjustably in position lengthwise of the tongue and groove connection between the mounting plate and the angle plate 54, the angle plate is slottedto receive a clamp screw 106 threaded into the mounting plate. Loosening the screw 106 permits sliding movement of the mounting plate on the angle plate in a direction to carry the rolls toward and from the sewing point, so that they may be located as close as possible to the sewing point 16.

To prevent engagement of the strip pressing roll with the upper and sock lining, which pass over the pressing roll and pilot roll, so that the pressing roll will always rotate freely, a shield is provided above the pressing roll in a position to extend between the strip and the other parts of the work operated on. As illustrated in the drawings, the shield comprises an offset arcuate strip 108 overlying the pressing roll 58 at one end and curving downwardly into a slotted olfset tang 110 secured to the angle plate 54. Slots in the lower end of the tang run vertically and have passing through them a pair of clamp screws 112 extending into threaded engagement with the angle plate. Loosening the clamp screws 112 enables movement of the shield vertically toward and from the cover strip pressing roll. In this way a convenient adjustable mounting is provided for the shield for bringingit into a position as close as possible to the pressing roll.

To provide means for quickly separating the pressing roll 58 from the pilot roll 50 so that a new strip may be introduced readily into the sewing point of the machine, the pressing roll carrier arm 60 has secured to it a right angle bar 114 extending upwardly from the carrier arm and comprising one of an operative set of connections between the' roll 58 and the presser foot 16. At 'the upper end of the bar 114 is secured a hook shaped fixture 116 disposed in the path of movement of the nonfeeding presser foot 16 as it is being lifted from engagement with the work. To secure the fixture to the bar, the fixture has a set screw 117 threaded into it and engaged at its inner end with the bar, which is received in a socket in the fixture. During normal sewing operations the fixture 116, being spaced above the presser foot 16 a suitable distance is not actuated as the presser foot accommodates itself to varying thicknesses of work, but when the presser foot is disengaged from the work by the lifting lever 42, the presser foot 16 contacts the hooked end of;

the fixture 116 causing the carrier arm 60 to swing the pressing roll 58 away from the pilot roll 50 into the position of Fig. 12. When the rolls are separated a cover strip is inserted readily between them and its leading end is applied conveniently to the work support. Thus, if a two-piece cover strip 118, (see Figs. 12 and 13) is being sewn the machine is stopped as soon as the trailing end of the first piece 118 reaches the sewing point (Fig. 12) and the presser foot lifting lever is actuated, separating the rolls. As soon asthe leadingendof the second strip piece 120 (Fig. 13) is applied to the sewing point the presser foot lever is actuated to release the.

presser foot, clamping the work at the sewing point and bringing the pressing roll against the new strip piece 120 running from the pilot roll. l

The features of construction relating to the adjtista bility in the cover strip pilot are prlmarily intended for compensating manufacturing variations during assembly. In certain instances, however, where extremes of variations in quality of cover strip materials are met, slight adjustments may be made to obtain maximum efficiency. In'the majority of instances, however, the use of the strip pilot in the construction of shoes eliminates need of frequent adjustments, the machine being capable of operating upon a full range of shoe sizes effectively without changes in adjustments. Aside from the use of the adjustments for assembly purposes, their principal use is where a fundamental change in the character or style of shoe requires wide variations in other adjustments of the stitch forming and work guiding devices in the machine itself.

The nature of the invention having been indicated and embodiments thereof having been described, what is particularly pointed out and desired to be claimed is:

' 1. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll for directing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second rotatably mounted roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll to press the strip into engagement with the pilot roll and arranged for axial movement relatively to the pilot roll to squeeze the strip against the pilot roll when the strip tends to move widthwise away from between the rolls;

2. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll provided with a radially projecting collar for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll for pressing the strip against the pilot roll and a pivot on which the pressing roll is rotatably mounted, arranged to enable axial movement of the pressing roll toward the collar on the pilot roll as the strip engaging said rolls tends to move out from between the rolls.

3. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feed,- ing and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line, with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll provided with a radially projecting collar for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll for pressing the strip against the pilot roll and a pivot on which the pressing roll is rotatably mounted, arranged to enable axial movement of the pressing roll toward the collar on the pilot roll as the strip engaging said rolls tends to move out from between the rolls, said pressing roll having a collar projecting radially at its end adjacent to the collar on the pilot roll, but to a less extent than the projection of the collar on the pilot roll.

4. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll provided with a radially projecting collar for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll for pressing the strip against the pilot roll and a pivot on which the pressing roll is rotatably mounted, arranged to enable axial movement of the pressing roll toward the collar on the pilot roll as the strip engaging said rolls tends to move out from between the rolls, 'said 12 pressing roll having a cone-shaped collar projecting radially at its end adjacent to the collar on the pilot roll and the pilot roll collar being coin-shaped with its periphery inclined in the direction opposite to that of the pressing roll.

5. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feedand and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll provided with a radially projecting collar for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll for pressing the strip against the pilot roll, and a pivot on which the pressing roll is rotatably mounted, said pivot having a length greater than a co-operating journal surface within the pressing roll to enable axial movement of the pressing roll toward the collar on the pilot roll as the strip engaging said rolls tends to move out from between the rolls.

6. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll provided with a radially projecting collar for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll for pressing the strip against the pilot roll, and a pivot on which the pressing roll is rotatably mounted, said pivot having a length greater than a co-operating journal sur.- face within the pressing roll to enable axial movement of the pressing roll toward the collar on the pilot roll as the strip engaging said rolls tends to move out from between the rolls, said pivot having a head to limit the movement of said pressing roll axially along the pivot and the pressing roll having a counterbore to cover the head of the pivot.

7. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material of variable width and curvature, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices, a pilot including a rotatably mounted roll for bringing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage, and a strip edge engaging abutment located along the path of the strip in advance of the roll, in combination with means for adjustably mounting the abutment for movement toward and from the pilot roll to accommodate strips of different flexibility, a bracket for the pilot roll and a plate on which the pilot bracket is mounted to swivel about an axis at an angle to the plane of the work engaging surface of the work support for changing the angle formed between a normal to the axis of the roll and a line of feed passing through the strip engaging surface of the edge gage to compensate for variations in flexibility of the material comprising the strip.

8. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices and a rotatably mounted pilot roll for directing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second rotatably mounted roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll to press the strip into engagement with the pilot roll, and a shield for the pressing roll located between the strip passing over the pilot roll and said other work to prevent engagement of the pressing roll with said other work.

9. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work, an

edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching devices, and a rotatably mounted pilot roll for directing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage, in combination with a second rotatably mounted roll located along the path of the strip in advance of the pilot roll to press the strip into engagement with the pilot roll, a shield for the pressing roll located between the strip passing over the pilot roll and said other work to prevent engagement of the pressing roll with said other work, and adjustable means for mounting the shield arranged to enable its movement toward and from the strip pressing roll.

10. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material of variable width and curvature, said machine having a work support post, devices for feeding and performing an operation alOng the edge of a strip, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise, a pilot including a bracket, a roll rotatably mounted on the bracket for pressing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage, and a second roll for pressing the strip into engagement with the pilot roll, in combination with an angle plate secured to the work support post, and a slotted plate having a strip edge engaging finger adjustably clamped to the angle plate by means of screws passing through the slot in the finger plate into threaded engagement with the angle plate to enable adjusting movement of the finger plate along the path of the strip toward the pilot roll.

11. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material of variable width and curvature, said machine having a work support post, devices for feeding and performing an operation along the edge of a strip, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise, a pilot including a bracket, a roll rotatably mounted on the bracket for pressing the strip into positive contact with'the edge gage, and a second roll for pressing the strip into engagement with the pilot roll, in combination with an angle plate secured to the work support post, a slotted plate having a strip edge engaging finger adjustably clamped to the angle plate by means of screws passing through the slot in the finger plate into threaded engagement with the angle plate to enable adjusting movement of the finger plate along the path of the strip toward the pilot roll, and a shield for the pressing roll secured to the angle plate and disposed within the space between the strip as it engages with the pilot roll and other work operated upon by the operating devices.

12. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material of variable width, said machine having devices for feeding and sewing one edge of a strip to other work, a work support, a presser foot for clamping the work on the work support, an edge gage on the work support against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the sewing devices, and a pair of parallel strip engaging rolls mounted in advance of the point of operation of the sewing devices, in combination with pivots on which the rolls are mounted provided with means for limiting axial movement of the rolls along the pivots, the axial movement limiting means for one of the rolls providing greater axial movement for that roll than is provided for the other roll, to cause relative axial movement between the rolls to squeeze the strip between them.

13. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material of variable width, said machine having devices for feeding and sewing one edge of a strip to other work, a work support, a presser foot for clamping the work on the work support, an edge gage on the work support against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the sewing devices, and a pair of parallel strip engaging rolls mounted in advance of the point of operation of the sewing devices, in combination with pivots on which the rolls are mounted provided With means for limiting axial movement of the rolls along the pivots, the axial movement limiting means for one of the rolls providing greater axial movement for that roll than is provided for the other roll, to cause relative axial movement between the rolls to squeeze the strip between them, the roll with the shorter axial movement being formed with a radially projecting collar against which the strip is pressed by axial movement of the other roll.

14. A sewing machine for attaching one edge of a relatively thin strip of variable width material to other work, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching said strip to the other work, a work support and a presser foot, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the point of operation of said attaching devices, means for disengaging the presser foot from the work to release it from the machine and a preliminary pilot engaging the strip along its path in advance of the point of operation of the attaching devices for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage including a roll engaging the marginal portion of the strip, in combination with operative connections between the presser foot and the roll to move the roll out of engagement with the strip when the presser foot is disengaged from the work.

15. A sewing machine for attaching one edge of a relatively thin strip of variable width material to other work, said machine having stitch forming and work clamping devices including a needle, a work support and a presser foot, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed. widthwise into line with the point of needle operation, means for disengaging the presser foot from the work to release it from the machine, a rotatably mounted pilot roll engaging the strip along its path in advance of the point of operation of the stitch forming devices for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, a second rotatably mounted roll cooperating with the pilot roll for pressing the strip into engagement therewith, and a carrier for the pressing roll movable toward and from the pilot roll, in combination with a bar connected to the carrier and disposed in the path of movement of the presser foot to release the strip from pressure of said pressing roll when the presser foot is disengaged from the work.

16. A sewing machine for attaching one edge of a relatively thin strip of variable width material to other work, said machine having stitch forming and work clamping devices including a needle, a work support and a presser foot, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the point of needle operation, means for disengaging the presser foot from the work to release it from the machine, a rotatably mounted pilot roll for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, a second rotatably mounted roll located along the path of the strip for pressing the strip into engagement with the pilot roll, a carrier on which the pressing roll is mounted for movement toward and from the pilot roll, and a spring engaged with the carrier for urging the pressing roll yieldingly toward the pilot roll, in combination with a fixture on the carrier disposed to be engaged by the presser foot While disengaging the work to separate the pressing roll from the pilot roll when the presser foot is moved to disengage the work.

17. A sewing machine for attaching one edge of a relatively thin strip of variable width material to other work, said machine having stitch forming and Work clamping devices including a needle, a work support and a presser foot, an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the point of needle operation, means for disengaging the presser foot from the work to release it from the machine, a rotatably mounted pilot roll for directing the strip widthwise into positive contact with the edge gage, a second rotatably mounted roll located along the path of the strip for pressing the strip into engagement with the pilot roll, a

carrier on which the, pressing roll is mounted for movement toward and from the pilot roll, and a spring engaged with the carrier for urging the pressing roll yieldingly toward the pilot roll, in combination with a fixture on the carrier disposed to be engaged by the presser foot While disengaging the work to separate the pressing roll from the pilot roll when the presser foot is moved to disengage the work, the portion of the arm engaged by the presser foot being spaced from the presser foot to enable independent movement thereof during sewing operations as it accommodates itself to varying thicknesses of work,

18. A machine for operating upon a relatively, thin flexible strip of variable width material, said machine having a device for feeding and attaching one edge of the strip to other work, a work support, a presser foot, an edge gage against which a portion of the strip engaging the work supporting surface of the work support is pressed widthwise into line with the attaching device, a strip pilot including a roll for bringing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage and a strip edge engaging finger located along the path of the strip in advance of the roll, in combination with means for adjustably mounting the pilot roll including a bracket, a pivot for the pilot roll on the bracket, a plate on which the pilot bracket is mounted to swivel about an axis at an angle to the plane of the work supporting surface of the Work support for changing the angle between a normal to the axis of the roll and a line of feed passing through the strip engaging surface of the edge gage, an angle plate for supporting the swivel mounting plate having a tongue and groove connection with the swivel mounting plate, the length of which connection extends in the line of work feed, and a clamp screw passing through the angle plate into threaded engagement with the swivel mounting plate to enable the pilot roll to be moved toward and from the point of operation of the attaching device.

19. A machine for operating upon relatively thin, flexible strip material, said machine having devices for feeding and attaching one edge of a strip to other work and an edge gage against which the strip is pressed widthwise into line with the attaohjng device, in combination with two rotatably mounted rolls of unequal axial length between which the margin of the strip passes for bringing the strip into positive contact with the edge gage, the shorter roll being shiftable along its axis of rotation relatively to the longer roll to squeeze the strip when the strip tends to move widthwise from be tween the rolls.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,131,621 Greicius Sept. 27, 1938 2,446,343 Reasor Aug. 3, 1948 2,648,302 Pearsall Aug. 11, 1953 FOREIGN PATENTS 11,543 Great Britain 1889 

